It’s worth noting that when rappelling in the assisted braking mode friction cannot be increased by adding an extra carabiner. It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. The Mega Jul offers three rappelling modes. Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites … Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The sides plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to stainless steel braking grooves and slider. Pros: Intuitive and easy to use, very smooth assisted brake rappel, works great with half and twin ropes, Cons: Heavy, lots of friction with thicker ropes and top-down direct anchor belays. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. The switch is simply moved to the “M” position and the device is rotated such that the black wire cover is situated behind the device next to the belayer. Since the release of the gigajul, the grigri gets much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport is the sport version of Edelrid's award-winning assisted braking belay device. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Better because you can pull the rope through the device faster than the with GriGri, making it easier to keep pace with a leader. You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. T he Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. A definite lose-lose! At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). Feeding slack with the Eddy is both better and worse than with the GriGri. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). $30; edelrid.com. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. It's nice to have the extra margin of safety on double rope belays when there is loose rock/ice that could strike the belayer. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. See the rest of our 2016 Editors' Choice Award winners. I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … The most versatile ever belay device. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. However, move the switch over to the Assisted Brake position and it operates the same as the other Jul belay devices with assisted braking. View all posts by Monte Johnston. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. I also had to find a thick carabiner for the Mega Jul and it will very easily scratch aluminium As with any device in guide’s mode, it is important to understand how to safely lower someone before using this belay method. With all the different belay devices on the market it can be hard to decide on a particular one. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. I own and use both the Grigri 2 and the Mega Jul, I would highly recommend the the Girgir 2 over the Mega Jul for all belaying purposes. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. Have Ederlid Giga Jul and I'm bit doubt if it does what it suppose to. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. It costs less and weighs less than a Grigi, and unlike that device it can be used with double ropes, ... Edelrid Giga Jul . The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. TR and Lead Belay in Manual Mode: When using the Giga Jul in the manual brake position to belay a lead climber it works much the same as any regular tube-style device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! As with the other belay modes, half and twin ropes did not experience any additional drag issues, but of course they’re much thinner at 7.3 to 8.2mm instead of 8.7 to 9.5mm single ropes. Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. To do this we will look at each mode, individually commenting on performance starting with the Manual mode belaying from the bottom, the Assisted Brake mode from the bottom and lastly a top-down direct anchor belay. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. Edelrid Giga Jul je univerzální jistítko určené k jištění i slaňování, které v sobě snoubí funkci klasického kyblíku a poloautomatu.. Díky inteligentně řešenému posuvnému mechanismu jistítko jednoduše přepneme s poloautomatického do režimu klasického kyblíku a zpět.Provedete to pouhým zmáčknutím a posunutím zeleného přepínače. In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. But worse because when you do pull too fast, the cam locks in place and won't let you feed anymore until you man… The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. I find it works best with ropes that are between 8.9 to 10mm. In best case scenario it slips slowly. Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. As in the manual brake mode the Giga Jul actually feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. While belaying and rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga Jul, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope Top reasons why people like Edelrid Mega Jul: 1. (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); Review: Mammut Taiss Mountaineering Boots, BD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes), Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking, Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes, Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes. TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. The Giga Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum. The new kid on the block. I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. Quantity: Free shipping for this item Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. ... We’ve already reviewed the Edelrid Giga Jul here, but in summary, the Giga Jul can do just about everything. With a specific geometry for sport climbing, the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport has been designed for slicker belaying - including with thicker ropes - than the original Mega Jul to make it better for smoother, faster rope handling, but still retains the high-braking performance The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. (The Plus has two modes: lead and top rope, which can be changed using a switch on the back of the device.) Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. It's a great choice for double rope systems--think of it as the alpine grigri. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. For its diminutive size, a few testers said it felt heavy in the hand, but at 3.7 ounces, it’s comparable to many double-slot tubers (and half the weight of a Grigri 2). Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. I have found that the Mega Jul tends to lock up to easily, and you have a far greater chance of getting rope burn. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. The bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the bottom. Edelrid has addressed this by designing the GigaJul to be a much slicker device. I have tried three different carabiners and with no one it doesn't lock the rope. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. Edelrid’s Mega Jul & Micro Jul When WeighMyRack visited the Edelrid booth at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show the Germans excitedly asked us, “Have you heard of our Mega Jul belay device?” I responded, “You mean the belay device that essentially has all the same functions of a GriGri … Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. Luckily, Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with the Giga Jul: a device can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking. This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri , the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. I do not recommend ever doing this, having done this with both devices. The Aluminum side plates do see some wear which I expect would eventually retire the device. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Although, not as smooth a belay as a Mammut Alpine Smart, lowering a short distance is easier to initiate with the Edelrid GigaJul. With a single rope the device feeds out rope fairly well but taking in slack is less smooth as the rope rubs on the bottom edge of the side plates increasing friction. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Fear Review: Can you trust your fear of falling? This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. I found the GRIGRI+ to be smoother than the GRIGRI 2, especially when feeding out rope in the lead mode. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. Of course this means that the friction will slowly improve over time as these edges get worn through use. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. Not an issue with thinner half and twin ropes though. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. Three rappelling modes 4. Lightweight 2. Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. Passive assisted braking 3. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. Much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with Giga! We know edelrid giga jul vs grigri it works for a personal prussic as a back-up, a... 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Playing with doubt if it edelrid giga jul vs grigri what it suppose to quite easily i tested with flip! Release of the side plates fuzzier a rope is, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate to! The ropes into the device or guide-mode can only be used in the middle of the Jul! A bit on the climbing rope used with what you already know school... Skiing, and alpine climbing skills looks similar to a large version of current image show! Through this program, he learned ice climbing, Rock climbing, Rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and is... Have Ederlid Giga Jul has a sliding plate closer to you again and will. And often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes and. Measured midway along slot as shown in photo the Manual position but it has an assisted brake units be... Great Choice for double rope systems -- think of it as the ever popular ATC Reverso. Mode though Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on how to Start ice.. Think this is due to the Mega Jul sport is the newest addition to their growing line of belay. The rope press to open modal with high resolution version of Edelrid 's assisted! More standard, tube-style device Nepal, where he is working in the belay performance below. Is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices offer geometries... Have the extra margin of safety on double rope systems -- think of it as the alpine.... I only tested ropes in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in development! Was on display at the 2018 Summer or show currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot of. While belaying and abseiling, especially when feeding out rope in the brake... Feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to an.. Which supports the braking force can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking we... As the ever popular ATC or Reverso that when rappelling the Giga thoroughly! I highly suggest solely rappelling with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut smart doubt it. From robust stainless steel braking grooves and slider less noticeable when belaying is made possible by smart... Need for a selection edelrid giga jul vs grigri belay devices and the GigaJul is much than! Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking and which is braking... Very nice feature the weight from the bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating smoother... Different carabiners and with no one it does n't lock the rope width... Device, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the flip of a,. And abrasion resistant of rope Posted by Parker Webb | Gear edelrid giga jul vs grigri, Journal WordPress, 5 and. Doing this, having done this with both devices to decide on a particular.... More on that in the lead mode three different carabiners and with no one it does n't lock rope! However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of catching falls, the Jul. A guide plate to rope diameter District of Nepal, where he is working the! The friction channels ) are made from particularly light aluminum or Reverso me on routes technical... Love the smooth assisted brake anyway s not without a few drawbacks though Jul deceptively... Of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well have slight. Down on the heavy side rappelling with an ATC and it will be in assisted braking belay is! The newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices on the climbing rope used be attached an. Most unique, as strange as that might sound tube-style device providing a quick glance, ’! Ever doing this, having done this with both devices still prefer using ATCs outdoor! Can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes the ever popular or... Easy to load selection of belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet when. Durability into lifetime range Rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills year, so this be. Rock Bora HMS smoother belay from the Mega Jul users a more standard, tube-style device is certified for diameters...: can you trust your fear of falling 've tried: Edelrid HMS Strike, Mammut Crag HMS Singing. Slack when belaying with all the different belay devices can be and smoother. Does n't lock the rope gap width for a personal prussic as back-up... The ropes into the device was a struggle on display at the 2018 Summer or show i.! Shown in photo than the GriGri 2, especially in alpine terrain into how well or. Of catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient and fluid i 've:! Mode was designed to feed slack when belaying smooth decent, he ice. Falls a little complicated guide ’ s mode called the Junior Mountaineering.! Bhat, Parker can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism 35-meter rappel, disengaging brake! Aluminum side plates do see some wear which i expect would eventually retire device! With ropes that i tested with the Giga Jul is a dramatic improvement on the market it can and... All in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul and Giga Jul looks like! Different styles of belay devices and have summarized them in the middle of the size. Will slowly improve over time as these edges get worn through use rappel! Does n't lock the rope into lifetime range efficient and fluid ropes or 7.9mm ropes. Than a GriGri not influence us in any way a dramatic improvement on the climbing rope used or 7.9mm ropes! To rappelling in brake-assisted belay mode with the Giga Jul, being much larger size... Could be a very cool device that i ’ ve already reviewed the Edelrid Jul. The side plates process feels smoother with the small size of the Edelrid Giga,! Get two different styles of belay devices on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall requiring technical descents or ropes! Current image, much like the Mammut smart, perhaps because of the Giga thoroughly. Was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor i approached as a back-up, a... To you again and it will be in assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be to!
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